For those who haven't seen the location map I drew of where I was here it is and for those who have seen it, here it is again. It shows my journeys from Baku and where I went by train and bus and then a flight across country to Nakhchivan, the enclave, or exclave, of Azerbaijan. It is necessary to fly because there is a dispute about permission to drive across Armenia that is taking a long while to be settled. (The internal flights sort of upset our plans a bit because the flights there and back were delayed by bad weather but, whatever, we were on holiday and you can't do anything about weather and whatever we did was new for me so I didn't complain unlike Miss Perfect who did complain). Nakhchivan is an autonomous republic separated from Azerbaijan and is 280 miles west of Baku. It has a population of 95,000
In all we slept in 5 different hotels, the longest time we had was 3 nights in Baku plus another added on when our flights were delayed mid week and that was in a different hotel.
This was all fine and not a problem but it is wise to travel light if you can, which I can. Ian had a lot of camera equipment with him which made his luggage bigger than the rest of us.
The day in Sheki was good because it was the historic city on the Silk Road and in the foothills of the Caucasus. From Sheki we drove to Qabola which was the green area of the country that you saw in the photos yesterday and that was the farming area.
In the train. That's Jean nearest, Margaret by the window, and the guide, Valli. The train was comfortable and on time and there was an attendant in every carriage. I asked where the toilet was and she accompanied me to the exact location, knocked on the door, and then waited for me. She also did this with others on the train, not just me because I was a tourist. The attendants also brought us water, for no payment. We saw her taking the blood pressure of another passenger. I am not sure if this was a service offered to all but I think it probably was as she was carrying the blood pressure equipment with her.
Later when we were out of the train and driving north we saw markets for the locals with lovely fruit and vegetables.
Always lots of these of the president and or the former president or both , Ilham Aliyev and his father Heydar Aliyev, who have been leaders in the country for many years. It is a dictatorship with hopefully all the best things a dictatorship can be with efficiency of organisation and prosperity. If the clean streets and law and order are anything to go by then it is good.The driving on from Sheki was hairy in the mountains of the Caucasus but it was always interrupted by a stop for tea.













The quality and display of the fruit and veg look amazing. I always tend to think of these countries as being worse off than us and more 'primitive' for want of a better word, but those displays could compete just as well or even better than our supermarkets here. What an eye opener. I'll add you to my list of blogs.
ReplyDeleteThe climate in Azerbaijan is perfect for fruit and vegetable growing and it represents one of the top growers of the world. The taste of the fruits and salads were way in excess of Britain along with honey, teas and fruit and refreshing herb drinks. The food was excellent, especially for meat eaters because there was a lot of BBQ meat served.
DeleteIt is nice seeing the photos here after Instagram. I notice new things and more detail on the computer. My small phone screen makes the colors more vibrant. Are you feeling better?
ReplyDeleteI tried to give a flavour of the country to those who hadn't seen Instagram. I am no worse and a little better. Thanks x
DeleteWhat a wonderful market! I think I would enjoy wandering around there. The train journey also looks very comfortable and civilized - haha. Thanks for sharing! -Jenn
ReplyDeleteAzerbaijan appears to have a very efficient state run railway.
DeleteWe visited several markets for locals and they are lucky in that they have wonder produce. We saw a vast out of town wholesale market when passing an industrial area for produce which was very busy. It is a big part of the country's econonmy. Thanks Jenn.
Your trip through Azerbaijan is so interesting. I'd love to be able to visit. Like you, in a small group. Doubt I ever will. I have never hear of Nakhchivan. The whole area on your map is fascinating
ReplyDeleteThe Nakhchivan place was something I had never thought about. They are a bit locked away. Many of the younger generation go to Baku for work and then they can only fly backwards and forwards to see family and vice versa until the land access over Armenia is agreed. The "goods" being taken on the internal flights were like everything in cardboard boxes including the kitchen sink. I expected to see animals! When the flights were delayed hundreds of them slept in the airport surrounded by their luggage when we went off to a hotel. They chatted to us through Google translate and were very friendly. Lots of young boys were being seen off by family to do national service in Baku area. Everybody is also very honest in Azerbaijan and it is normal to put down phones and wallets and bags and not fear they will be stolen. This came as quite a shock to us from England. It was a good holiday. I think I needed it.
DeleteThank you for the 'Non-Touristy' pictures, it's good to see the insides of shops etc. Beach scenes mean nothing.
ReplyDeleteI always visit and photograph a place to see how it is to live there and I like to see farms and daily life, cars, garages, etc. Touristy places have never interested me.
DeleteThank you for more from your trip! The fruit and veg is displayed so beautifully, and I am really impressed by how nice, clean and comfortable the train looks - ours are so filthy and shabby that you don't want to take a seat unless you know it's going to be a longer trip. And the service! Well, it doesn't take much to be better than what goes for "service" on German trains, but train attendants in Azerbaijan must have really good training and good attitude to be like what you describe.
ReplyDeleteThe map is very helpful. 95,000 people? That's about the size of my hometown!
I am quite surprised about what you say about the trains in Germany. Last time I was on an ICE train it was very clean but maybe that it is because it was of the ICE fleet.
DeleteThe population of the enclave of Nakhchivan was 95,000, fairly sparcely populated country of barren lands and poor agriculture and local crafts and the one major town employing people in offices of state, hospital, municipal services etc.